A Nice Pastrami Sandwich…

It started in Poland. And Romania and Russia. And, of course, Germany. Two million Jews, long separated, settled in the US, many  in a small parcel of Manhattan known as the Lower East Side. They lived in tenements, they bought food from pushcarts. and in time, those pushcarts became markets and small sit-down restaurants.

A century later, not much remains. Except Katz’s, of course. The corner of Houston and Ludlow Streets has seen its share of changes–from a Jewish community to a dangerous place popular with drug addicts and ne’er-do-wells, to its modern incarnation as home to various dot.coms, NYU students, and those with enough money to live in the neighborhood. It’s the oldest deli in the country, and among the survivors. (Not a bad starting place: learn some Yiddish from Katz’s.)

Pastrami on rye from Katz’s on NYC’s lower east side. To the left, a half-sour pickle, and to the right, a sour pickle.

Like good barbecue (which uses similar cuts of beef, including the brisket and the navel), the proper preparation of pastrami requires a great deal of loving care. It’s dry-rubbed, then allowed to cure for as long as two weeks, then smoked for about five hours. It’s a costly process that involves a few dozen steps, some at the meat processor, more at the store. Most stores cut corners and buy meat injected with flavor. The best stores have their own processes, including the best way to cut the meat (always hand-cut, never by machine!) A good sandwich contains about a half pound of the succulent, slightly fatty, slightly salty, slight smoky red meat; a ridiculous sandwich, served, mostly, to tourists who now frequent Manhattan’s The Stage and the Carnegie Deli (both located between Times Square and Carnegie Hall), weighs a pound. (These are very smart, if very full, tourists. The pastrami at both the Stage and the Carnegie smells, and tastes, fabulous. But there is lot of it!)

Sadly, I’ve just named half of Manhattan’s Jewish delicatessens. In times past, New York’s kosher delis (not always completely kosher; times change), there were dozens. Now, there are a handful. All good. Some better than the best. Katz’s is in the better category, a definite must-do for visitors to Manhattan. Arguably, the reopened 2nd Avenue Deli is better still. There’s Artie’s on the upper west side. Sarge’s is a good neighborhood place (once, I sat next to Abbie Hoffman). On Manhattan’s upper east side, Pastrami Queen is another good choice.

Sliced pastrami from the reopened 2nd Avenue Deli in Manhattan. One of the world’s best, it rose from the ashes in 2007, and remains very popular in its new location on east 33rd street, a mile or two from the original lower east side site.

So what’s so special? Start with a good pastrami sandwich. The flavor is powerful, sweet and peppery, salty and smoky, a blend that smells wonderful and tastes even better–when the meat is prepared the right way, it’s over-the-top, or as Food Network’s Guy Fieri would say, “a one way trip to flavor town!” Pastrami can be eaten on a roll, but it is so much finer with good crusty Jewish rye bread (must be fresh). Many people insist upon a dark brown mustard (Gulden’s), but I’m not a fan. I do, however, insist upon both half-sour and sour pickles on the side. A proper pickle will make a cracking sound when you bite in, and will explode with some juice. The appropriate beverage accompaniment would be a (vanilla) cream soda or a black cherry soda, made by a long-time Brooklyn brand: Dr. Brown’s. If you’re a purist, Dr. Brown’s Cel-Ray soda is an even better choice (it’s made with celery seeds). Dr. Brown’s soda is still independently made, and you can (and should) buy it in New York City and Florida grocery stores (or online).

Again, the source is 2nd Avenue Deli. In a kosher deli, these come from, just for sitting down at the table. In most places, you’ll get a small stack of sliced rye bread and maybe some cole slaw, too. BTW: the egg-shaped light-colored pickle is pickled plum tomato, a sure sign of a deli that knows what it’s doing.

Okay, back to the deli menu. For some, the powerful punch of pastrami is too much, so the fall-back choice is corned beef. This is not Irish corned beef, but it is similar. It’s salty and a bit smoky, but not peppery. It’s milder. It’s delicious–but beware of corned beef sold in places that are not serious about their pastrami. The result will be salty, but ordinary, just a wad a salted meat. Of course, you can go for roast beef or turkey (often freshly cut), and these are just fine, but not so different from what you will find elsewhere. Sometimes, you’ll find rolled beef (sort of a cross between pastrami and roast beef), and often, you’ll find tongue. Yes, cow’s tongue, sliced as deli meet. The tongue is cured, like corned beef, and it tastes great, but then, you find yourself thinking that you are eating a slice of a cow’s tongue, and well, pastrami may be an easier choice.

A good pastrami sandwich can be quite filling, not something you should enjoy alone. Bring a friend. That way, you can rationalize a side dish. And there is no better side dish than a potato knish (KUH-nish). It’s a fist-sized potato dumpling, filled with mashed potato, onion and spices, then baked in a very, very thin pastry shell. Actually, even better (and even more filling, a meal in itself) is the kasha knish. Kasha is a buckwheat groat, enjoyed either as a knish or as part of another deli favorite, kasha varnishkis (same kasha, this time with pasta bow ties and, in the best delis, a thin brown gravy).

The popular side dish–easy to make at home, in fact–Kasha Varnishkes as served, perfectly, at 2nd Avenue Deli. Click on the pic for lots more images of menu items.

Hey, this blog article is already getting long, and we haven’t even left Manhattan. There’s good stuff to be eaten in the other four boroughs, and (many would say) even better stuff in Los Angeles (where the NY delis best customers moved), and wonderful surprises in a handful of other places in the US and abroad. The tour continues next week.

Meantime, if this article has made you hungry, two options. First, get yourself to Manhattan this week. (Katz’s is open late.) Second, dig into Save the Deli by David Sax. Nobody knows more, and I suspect, few people care more, than this traveling author.

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Comments

  1. I really enjoyed this excellent post. Curtis

  2. Stewart Wolpin says:

    Nice round-up, but let me add some additional salted tidbits.

    Only a few places actually steam their own meats, including Sarge’s. Carnegie doesn’t, as far as I know, and neither does 2d Ave Deli (which is now located on 33d street just west of 3d Ave). Katz’s might. Not sure about Artie’s – only been there once and am going back Aug 8 to meet some old college buddies for lunch. Angelica Houston was there the last time I was there.

    Katz’s pastrami is cut much thicker than other places. Not sure if this is “authentic,” but that’s what they’re known for. They also have a weird way of paying – some sort of ticket is involved. It always confuses me when I’m there. It’s also the place where the “I’ll have what she’s having!” scene from “When Harry Met Sally” was filmed – the table is indicated by a hanging sign.

    Finally, at the end you say Katz’s is open late. True, but Sarge’s is open 24-hrs a a day, 7 days a week. I’ve NEVER known them to be closed.

    Bon appetite.

  3. From my dad–received via email:

    Out-of-towners, visiting New York City, often enjoy an overstuffed pastrami or corned beef sandwich at the legendary Stage Delicatessen.  This “landmark” eatery has long been the haunt of countless show business personalities.  Even the well-stacked sandwiches are named after the celebrities.  Max Asnas, the former owner, became almost as famous as the stars he catered to.  To Brpadway old-timers he is fondly remembered for going from table to table to greet his patrons.  Those in the  know, knew he was really checking the amount of meat his employees placed between the slices of rye bread.
     
    Comedian “Fat” Jack E. Leonard (one of the first insult comics) was one of those in the know, so he decided to play an appropriate joke on the restaurateur.  Purchasing a pound of sliced pastrami at the retail counter, Jack E. kept it hidden until he was seated at a table.  The funnyman ordered a pastrami sandwich, and before Max could visit his table, carefully wedged all the extra meat into the already sky-high sandwich.
     
    Max almost keeled over when he saw the gargagantuan stack of food.  With fire in his eyes, he raced into the kitchen to find the unfaithful employee.  In hot pursuit, the chivalrous Mr. Leonard followed, and saved the short-order cook’s job by explaining the prank.
     
    As I mentioned, Mr. Asnas made it a practice of visiting his customers’ tables for their comments. Radio super star, Fred Allen responded by telling him, “Your food is very good, but it gave me heartburn.”  Max shrugged his shoulders and said, “So what do you expect in a delicatesssen — sunburn?”  

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